“We will remember them!”
62 wooden sticks stand alone, on top of a steep grassy knoll near the middle of the Kokoda track. Each one represents a fallen soldier who died during the battle of Brigade Hill which took place here 75 years ago. Buried here on a lonely hill during the height of the Kokoda campaign they were eventually moved in 1944 to the Bomana war cemetery where they remain today.
A small brass plaque commemorating those that fell here acknowledges the ultimate sacrifice paid by the young men who tried to hold this position against such odds. Standing here looking down the steep sided ridge and out across the valley, it is impossible to conceive how the Australians and Japanese were able to effectively move through such steep terrain let alone engage in warfare with each other. This is the site of a fierce battle, “The Battle of Brigade Hill.” Stories of heroic feats and of hand to hand combat with soldiers “dug into their fox holes” holding their position, shoulder to shoulder, not willing to give an inch, “cause I can’t let my mates down!” So many lives lost, in this one spot. Young boys, never to return home to their families and loved ones. It’s eerily quiet and ironically peaceful here now.
It’s such a fitting place for a group of 14 trekkers to gather to pay their respects by holding a memorial service and give thanks. The haunting sound of the last post drifts across the ridge calling all of those around to reflect on the human sacrifice and loss that has given us the freedom we enjoy today.
Our group consisted of three returning trekkers, husband and wife Brett and Annette and Stephen who this time was sharing the experience with his daughter Emma and Niece Nakita. Father and daughter Paul and Diane , Mother and Daughter Wendy and Jackie, along with father son Dave and Ryan along with Doug, Paul and Peter. Everyone form totally different backgrounds spread out across Qld about to share a trip of a lifetime.
As this group was travelling South to North it meant that on Day one we left the hotel and stopped at Bomana War Cemetery where we payed respects to the thousands of service men who died in PNG. It reinforced the fact that we were literally retracing the footseps of the fallen soldiers who fought along the Kokoda track.
Arriving at Owers Corner and looking out across the ranges the group got their first proper look at what lay ahead of them. The Owen Stanley Ranges rising up dauntingly made for some quiet reflection for some people before we began. The first few days the track was wet and slippery and the afternoon rain set in making for long tiring days getting into camp very late.
Getting into Kagi on Friday afternoon the group were greeted by the locals who sang songs of welcome and cheer. As we walked into camp we were blessed to be given the rare chance to meet Havala Laula the last Fuzzy Wuzzy Angel left alive today. Having a rest day on Saturday meant that our porters could attend church with their families and the group was invited to join them and experience village life for the day. The day off was welcomed as clothes were washed and sore muscles were rested. Late on Saturday evening the group was treated to an amazing sing along with the locals children and the most energetic version of the “Hokey Pokey” ever.
The following four days saw the group head further North visiting Myola Lakes,The B25 Bomber site and a dawn service held at the Isurava memorial site was a special and rare opportunity to share. As daylight broke and the clouds lifted from below us in the Yodda Valley young high school student Emma once again played the last post on the schools bugle she had carefully carried with her the whole way. Dedications made to lost souls and the reflections and stories of the fallen shared, the group moved on towards Kokoda where we stayed our last night on the track.
Early the next day we had a service at Kokoda before heading to the Northern Beaches of Gona. Buna and Sanananda where the Japanese originally landed and were finally pushed off early 1943.
62 wooden sticks stand alone, on top of a steep grassy knoll near the middle of the Kokoda track. Each one represents a fallen soldier who died during the battle of Brigade Hill which took place here 75 years ago. Buried here on a lonely hill during the height of the Kokoda campaign they were eventually moved in 1944 to the Bomana war cemetery where they remain today.
A small brass plaque commemorating those that fell here acknowledges the ultimate sacrifice paid by the young men who tried to hold this position against such odds. Standing here looking down the steep sided ridge and out across the valley, it is impossible to conceive how the Australians and Japanese were able to effectively move through such steep terrain let alone engage in warfare with each other. This is the site of a fierce battle, “The Battle of Brigade Hill.” Stories of heroic feats and of hand to hand combat with soldiers “dug into their fox holes” holding their position, shoulder to shoulder, not willing to give an inch, “cause I can’t let my mates down!” So many lives lost, in this one spot. Young boys, never to return home to their families and loved ones. It’s eerily quiet and ironically peaceful here now.
It’s such a fitting place for a group of 14 trekkers to gather to pay their respects by holding a memorial service and give thanks. The haunting sound of the last post drifts across the ridge calling all of those around to reflect on the human sacrifice and loss that has given us the freedom we enjoy today.
Our group consisted of three returning trekkers, husband and wife Brett and Annette and Stephen who this time was sharing the experience with his daughter Emma and Niece Nakita. Father and daughter Paul and Diane , Mother and Daughter Wendy and Jackie, along with father son Dave and Ryan along with Doug, Paul and Peter. Everyone form totally different backgrounds spread out across Qld about to share a trip of a lifetime.
As this group was travelling South to North it meant that on Day one we left the hotel and stopped at Bomana War Cemetery where we payed respects to the thousands of service men who died in PNG. It reinforced the fact that we were literally retracing the footseps of the fallen soldiers who fought along the Kokoda track.
Arriving at Owers Corner and looking out across the ranges the group got their first proper look at what lay ahead of them. The Owen Stanley Ranges rising up dauntingly made for some quiet reflection for some people before we began. The first few days the track was wet and slippery and the afternoon rain set in making for long tiring days getting into camp very late.
Getting into Kagi on Friday afternoon the group were greeted by the locals who sang songs of welcome and cheer. As we walked into camp we were blessed to be given the rare chance to meet Havala Laula the last Fuzzy Wuzzy Angel left alive today. Having a rest day on Saturday meant that our porters could attend church with their families and the group was invited to join them and experience village life for the day. The day off was welcomed as clothes were washed and sore muscles were rested. Late on Saturday evening the group was treated to an amazing sing along with the locals children and the most energetic version of the “Hokey Pokey” ever.
The following four days saw the group head further North visiting Myola Lakes,The B25 Bomber site and a dawn service held at the Isurava memorial site was a special and rare opportunity to share. As daylight broke and the clouds lifted from below us in the Yodda Valley young high school student Emma once again played the last post on the schools bugle she had carefully carried with her the whole way. Dedications made to lost souls and the reflections and stories of the fallen shared, the group moved on towards Kokoda where we stayed our last night on the track.
Early the next day we had a service at Kokoda before heading to the Northern Beaches of Gona. Buna and Sanananda where the Japanese originally landed and were finally pushed off early 1943.
Short boat rides
The Northern Beaches gave everyone some time to relax and take several short boat rides to see some of the many relics that still remain scattered throughout the area. Anti-Aircraft guns near the airfield/ a complete American B24 Marauder/ Japanese Bunker systems/ sunken barges and endless displays of ordinance.
Family, partners and new best friends all shared the falls and mud, tears and laughter. It’s all part of the Kokoda experience.
To the trekkers - Thanks for being part of honouring the diggers and the local people along the way, for allowing yourself to be challenged and overcome your doubts/ fears. There are many lessons to be learned on the track about the war and ourselves and how to dig deep when you would normally give up.
To “The Track” and those that served there- You will always be etched in the minds of those that have experienced this trip leaving great memories and emotions to last a lifetime.
“There are two types of people in the world…… Those that have walked Kokoda…… and those that haven’t! Welcome to the club!” Drew Gordon
Until next time the bugle calls…….. PACKS OFF!
Peter Ranasinghe
Expedition Guide
No Roads Expeditions
[email protected]
The Northern Beaches gave everyone some time to relax and take several short boat rides to see some of the many relics that still remain scattered throughout the area. Anti-Aircraft guns near the airfield/ a complete American B24 Marauder/ Japanese Bunker systems/ sunken barges and endless displays of ordinance.
- Doug, you officially had the most falls on the track I have seen. You had every excuse to give up but you got back up and kept going like the true trooper you are.
- Pete - The “Blister/s of the week award” is firmly in your grasp mate and I hope in years to come when we look back on the trip we never forget the hardships along the way for the diggers and modern day travellers.
- Emma- Your realisations on the track and the way you steeled yourself to play the bugle for us made for special moments for us all, not to mention the ‘proud teary eyed bearded man that was with us (Dad.)
- Ryan- The first couple of days you struggled and then found your feet and there was no holding you back after that. I know Dad was really proud to see you refuse to give up and step up to the challenges along the way.
- Paul- If the Kokoda track is what you ticked off the first week of retirement you must be excited about what lays ahead. You must be very proud of what you and Dianne experienced together and she showed us all she can do anything she puts her mind to.
- Adrian- The quiet achiever. Pushed himself when needed but got it all done. Well done mate!
- Nakita , Emma got a new older sister and the Capras are in good hands.
- Brett and Annette, you saw the track from a completely different perspective this time around and I hope the experience has finally “Scratched that itch!”
- Wendy and Jackie seeing you two help each other out always and experience the track together was something special indeed.
Family, partners and new best friends all shared the falls and mud, tears and laughter. It’s all part of the Kokoda experience.
To the trekkers - Thanks for being part of honouring the diggers and the local people along the way, for allowing yourself to be challenged and overcome your doubts/ fears. There are many lessons to be learned on the track about the war and ourselves and how to dig deep when you would normally give up.
To “The Track” and those that served there- You will always be etched in the minds of those that have experienced this trip leaving great memories and emotions to last a lifetime.
“There are two types of people in the world…… Those that have walked Kokoda…… and those that haven’t! Welcome to the club!” Drew Gordon
Until next time the bugle calls…….. PACKS OFF!
Peter Ranasinghe
Expedition Guide
No Roads Expeditions
[email protected]
