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Kokoda Trek Report - August 2017 - Andrew Johnson

​August Trek – 75th Anniversary Isurava Battlefield

Another magnificent Kokoda Trek with some amazing people, topped off by a very special Dawn Service at Isurava Battlefield to commemorate 75 years to the day.

The team gathers at the Gecko Bar for the pre trek briefing over the odd ale or whiskey.  The Lancaster & McLean crew are introduced to Sam & I and immediately, we know we are going to have a LOT of fun amidst the pain!

Standard run to Popondetta and onto Kokoda over those magnificent new bridges and then the casual stroll up to Deniki.  Rumours are a-fly as to what may be happening at Isurava for the anniversary – high level delegations, Blackhawk helicopters, etc etc, so we decide, yes, we will camp at Isurava for the night.  This allows us time to explore the Japanese plane wreck above Isurava, a plane that obviously went in hard to the side of the mountain but left some very recognisable bits & pieces like props, bombs, and military insignia.  Its obvious too that not too many get to make this detour and we feel very privileged to join the few

Onto Isurava to meet the ‘delegation’, being one ADF rep & ‘Tom’ from the Australian High Commission.  Oh well, so much for the blackhawks but the leisure to explore the site, then joining with another trekking crew to share the Dawn Service will sit long in our memories.  And the delegation was just right for the location – thanks gents

Played a bit of catch up to get back on schedule with our day of rest being at New Nauro. Again, we blow the church population out and contribute a fair whack to the offering plate.  But Service is always interesting, be you a believer or a back-slider!
​And then on through to the finish line.

Highlights:
  • Airlines PNG expecting us in September, not August, but we still get aboard in record time.  Jack Diea weaving his magic!
  • Dry underfoot but a little damp overhead with light to medium rains every day.  At least we weren’t burnt to a crisp with hot sun!  The cloud cover, the mists, etc were just right.
  • Breaking in of the #1 official NoRoads Trekking Umbrella.
  • Rivers and creeks down but still some good swimming to be had, especially off the rocks at Goldie
  • Cultural Question of the Year – Walter, as head man of Kagi, do you get to wear a hat?  No  A badge or anything?  No.    He’s Walter, he doesn’t need to – he is obviously THE Man
  • Tim’s dulcet tones every night ex his snoz, putting us all into deep sleep (only when camped by a stream).  He did supply us with earplugs though
  • Dave’s running commentary on anything you’d like – gave AJ a good break
  • Jacks attempts at being the guide after reading some notes – a bit like his flying I guess – all bluff.  but that’s what makes a good guide/pilot
  • The Lancaster boys, Bomber & Burt, (go figure) still playing hard off each other 50 years on.
  • Sammie rocking the trip with a crook ankle and being our only hope of some feminine input (well apart from Tom)
  • Wills fourth guess at the village he stayed at last time he walked the track, being Martyrs, on the Popondetta Road.  But hey, after many more times on the track, I still get confused as to where I am – its green, its wet and we are heading uphill, damn I’m annoyed I missed the last mile marker!
  • Our attempts at the Australian National Anthem against the enthusiasm of the Kagi kids with the PNG anthem.  Wow, are they good!
  • Missing out on the return singing of, “My name is AJ & I love……..” as the rain came down and drove us inside.  And missing out on the Hokey Pokey!!! :-(
But as always, its just a small glimpse of the fun, the struggle, the poignancy, the kids, the porter team, the new friends, the sadness of war, and the legacy of the track.

​Mateship, Courage, Endurance & Sacrifice.  And the greatest of all – Love.

Cheers,

Andrew Johnson
Expedition Guide
No Roads Expeditions
ajohnson@noroads.com.au

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