‘Alan’s Patrol , Toodiks Bridge and The Trekking for Melanoma Charity Trek
I often find myself inadvertently smiling & laughing about some of the experiences occurring on trek’s and in particular, this one was jammed packed with many of those moments. They are often triggered by some random - normal civilian life experience and i’m certain my work colleagues and family must think i’m mad!! It just can’t be helped, such is the impact of walking Kokoda has on me and I’m sure no doubt others who have done so!
The idea of this trek was initially born over a beer with a mate who recently experienced Melanoma Cancer and he particularly wanted to give back to those who assisted him during his journey by raising funds for the Bendigo Health Foundation and Melanoma Cancer Services & Equipment in Regional Victoria. In a short matter of time, we had a willing & capable number of volunteers who not only wanted to raise funds for the Foundation but also were willing to fund their own way to walk the infamous Kokoda Track. Ideas for fundraising were thrown around and after a lot of planning & obtaining donations of gifts etc. from local businesses, a Sportsman Night at the Bendigo District RSL with AFL Footballers Sam Rowe & Brian Lake speaking was arranged. This was very successful night, not only in raising funds but more importantly in raising awareness about Melanoma Cancer within the local Bendigo community & surrounding district.
Luke, Marcus & Trent arranged a Bunnings BBQ before Christmas and Peter & Sue arranged a golf day locally which both raised an amazing amount of money for the charity.
Into the picture comes a man who not only worked in PNG for 30+ years as a Kiap and still fluently speaks Pidgin English but was also my father’s best mate during their early schooling years in Ouyen Victoria. Alan brought along his son Phillip and his three mates, Chris, David & Murray from Finley/Jerilderie and from the start, the whole group mixed very well together.
Everyone was amped for the initial flight over the Owen Stanley’s to Girua Airport - Popondetta and we loaded up the PMV and started our bumpy/dusty ride to Kokoda. After 3 hours, everyone was very glad to reach Kokoda. Preparations were immediately commenced to get our trekking gear in order, assign the personal porters, look for missing items (good one PK) and start to mentally prepare for the next 9 days on the Kokoda track. A look to the sky saw some menacing clouds forming to the northeast so with haste, we started our journey towards our first night objective being Deniki. Our haste was not good enough and the heavens rained down upon us and continued throughout the night, ensuring the next day’s walking would be slippery under foot.
Day 2 broke with some sunshine and we enjoyed a lovely breakfast made by our Master Chef Frank and started the day’s journey which took in the beautiful choco fields and holding a Remembrance Service at Isurava Memorial. The weather remained fine for the service and it was a very special moment having Alan read a poem and a few tears were shed by all. We paid our respects to those gallant diggers who fought at Isurava and paid the ultimate sacrifice. We pushed on to arrive in the beautiful village of Alola for the night – more rain, all fatigued but all happy!
Up at 5.00am for Day 3 and started with the very slippery descent down to La La Creek and made our way to the Eora Creek battlefield and some morning tea. We had the privilege of being probably the first white people to cross over the new bridge built and consequently, I gave our two brothers Luke & Marcus the honour of coming up with an inspirational name for this bridge. I guess it was their attempt of naming the bridge in Pidgin but they came up with Toodiks Bridge….not sure of the English translation. The heavens opened up again as we moved towards Templeton’s Crossing with the overnight objective being Dump 1 however upon arrival at Templeton’s Crossing, everyone was pretty spent and decided to make camp for night. We had the opportunity to have a wash in the frigid waters of the Eora Creek and despite hyperthermia starting to take its hold, it was a fantastic remedy for those sore legs. Phil won’t forget this place in a hurry and I’m sure his wife won’t let him forget! I think it was Robbo who suggested to rename ‘Eora Creek’ to ‘Phil’s Ring’…..its pretty catchy but we will keep Eora Creek all the same – big day – everyone tired – Toodiks Bridge – Phil’s Ring.
After a coolish night at Templeton’s Crossing, we started the morning walk towards Dump 1 at 6.30am and gain back the ground we lost the prior day. We are heading for Kagi – most of our boys home village so spirits were high and jokes cracking freely. It was a big climb out of Templeton’s and everyone was wide awake and concentrating as the track between Templeton’s & Dump 1 was a quagmire, lots & lots of mud with several trekkers slipping over. We made 1900 campsite for lunch and enjoyed one of the best Pasta’s made by our Master Chef Frank. The heavens again rained down upon us and the journey from 1900 to Kagi was made in some very heavy rain of biblical proportions – all giggling like little children as there is absolutely nothing that can be done to keep you dry! Highlights of this section was Marcus imitating the Jamaican Bobsled Team going down one of the hills on his bottom, taking out one of the porters in the process, Trent’s 3 ½ falls and the Kagi Villagers welcoming us in pouring rain! Tomorrow is a Rest day for the Sabbath which allowed us to wash clothes, rest the body and generally take in the view surrounding Kagi.
Day 6 had more rain overnight and like normal, we were up early for the big days walk to Menari via Brigade Hill battlefield. On walking through Kagi Village, we had the opportunity to greet Havala being the last remaining Fuzzy Wuzzy Angel on the Kokoda Track. It was an impromptu arrangement and Alan gave him a huge hug and expressed his (and our) gratitude in Pidgin which impressed Havala greatly. We moved through Kagi Village with many a well wish being made and our porter team being farewelled by their respective families. The sky was overcast but the rain held off for our climb up to Lanamu then the walk down to Efogi. We had a brief break at the airstrip before the short but tough climb up to Mission Ridge and Brigade Hill. Lunch at Brigade Hill was fantastic as usual being toasted wraps and just before we commenced a Memorial Service, the battlefield was cloaked in heavy cloud with not a breath of wind. Those in attendance will attest that the flags were lifeless at the start of the service however during our rendition of ‘Advance Australia Fair’ the flags came into life and began to flutter….it was one of those spiritual moments that you can experience whilst walking the track.
The Menari Roosters were in abundance whilst walking into the village and several trekkers were thinking of dispatching a couple for the evening meal…not required as dinner was awesome but that was not the feeling at 3.10am when the Menari Roosters started their morning wakeup routine!!
Another early breakfast and start with New Nauro being our objective via ‘the Swamp’. With all of the rain that has been had during & before reaching the swamp, we were expecting it to be very boggy and we were not disappointed. Energy sapping mud at times up to the shins with several river crossings which tested one’s balance skills. I made the fatal mistake of telling Trent about this little bridge in the swamp which is a great photo opportunity but typical PNG, here one minute gone the next and wallah….bridge is submerged under 4 foot water making everyone wade through the swamp and adding to the ‘adventure’. Everyone made New Nauro safely where we went about the business of trying to wash ourselves, our clothes and then trying to dry them! Bang….on cue….rain…rain…rain!
Tomorrow (Day 8) is a big day’s walk of over 15km to Ua-Ule Creek but everyone is doing well, managing their little niggling injuries, sore knees & cuts and getting so close to completing the Kokoda Track. 6.30am start walking and after a lot of physical & mental effort, we complete the 9 false peaks and the peak of the Maguli Ranges. After a brief rest and a few group photos, we start the long...long drop down to Ofi Creek with several trekkers taking tumbles but none more so than Peter ‘Humpty Dumpty’ Kelly! We climbed back up to Ioribaiwa and had a brief dedication service for one of the 2/31st soldiers who was killed at that location. We continued on to Ioribaiwa Village for a well-deserved lunch then pushed on through 12 creek crossings to our evening camp of Ua-Ule Creek and an awesome swim.
Day 8 and the big push for the final day on the track!! Everyone is super keen to get going and our last major hurdle is Imita Ridge which is 45 minutes of hard, torturous climbing for Day 8 bodies and minds! We navigated the remainder of the creek crossings and made it to the base of Imita in good time. After a brief rest, an impromptu race to the top was arranged between Marcus and one of PNG’s finest mountain climbers Tuksy. Full packs and all, Marcus was off like Usain Bolt and however as discussed at the top of Imita later on, Marcus knew he wasn’t a chance when Tuksy took off ahead and was found to be ‘sunning’ himself on a rock!
Day 6 had more rain overnight and like normal, we were up early for the big days walk to Menari via Brigade Hill battlefield. On walking through Kagi Village, we had the opportunity to greet Havala being the last remaining Fuzzy Wuzzy Angel on the Kokoda Track. It was an impromptu arrangement and Alan gave him a huge hug and expressed his (and our) gratitude in Pidgin which impressed Havala greatly. We moved through Kagi Village with many a well wish being made and our porter team being farewelled by their respective families. The sky was overcast but the rain held off for our climb up to Lanamu then the walk down to Efogi. We had a brief break at the airstrip before the short but tough climb up to Mission Ridge and Brigade Hill. Lunch at Brigade Hill was fantastic as usual being toasted wraps and just before we commenced a Memorial Service, the battlefield was cloaked in heavy cloud with not a breath of wind. Those in attendance will attest that the flags were lifeless at the start of the service however during our rendition of ‘Advance Australia Fair’ the flags came into life and began to flutter….it was one of those spiritual moments that you can experience whilst walking the track.
The Menari Roosters were in abundance whilst walking into the village and several trekkers were thinking of dispatching a couple for the evening meal…not required as dinner was awesome but that was not the feeling at 3.10am when the Menari Roosters started their morning wakeup routine!!
Another early breakfast and start with New Nauro being our objective via ‘the Swamp’. With all of the rain that has been had during & before reaching the swamp, we were expecting it to be very boggy and we were not disappointed. Energy sapping mud at times up to the shins with several river crossings which tested one’s balance skills. I made the fatal mistake of telling Trent about this little bridge in the swamp which is a great photo opportunity but typical PNG, here one minute gone the next and wallah….bridge is submerged under 4 foot water making everyone wade through the swamp and adding to the ‘adventure’. Everyone made New Nauro safely where we went about the business of trying to wash ourselves, our clothes and then trying to dry them! Bang….on cue….rain…rain…rain!
Tomorrow (Day 8) is a big day’s walk of over 15km to Ua-Ule Creek but everyone is doing well, managing their little niggling injuries, sore knees & cuts and getting so close to completing the Kokoda Track. 6.30am start walking and after a lot of physical & mental effort, we complete the 9 false peaks and the peak of the Maguli Ranges. After a brief rest and a few group photos, we start the long...long drop down to Ofi Creek with several trekkers taking tumbles but none more so than Peter ‘Humpty Dumpty’ Kelly! We climbed back up to Ioribaiwa and had a brief dedication service for one of the 2/31st soldiers who was killed at that location. We continued on to Ioribaiwa Village for a well-deserved lunch then pushed on through 12 creek crossings to our evening camp of Ua-Ule Creek and an awesome swim.
Day 8 and the big push for the final day on the track!! Everyone is super keen to get going and our last major hurdle is Imita Ridge which is 45 minutes of hard, torturous climbing for Day 8 bodies and minds! We navigated the remainder of the creek crossings and made it to the base of Imita in good time. After a brief rest, an impromptu race to the top was arranged between Marcus and one of PNG’s finest mountain climbers Tuksy. Full packs and all, Marcus was off like Usain Bolt and however as discussed at the top of Imita later on, Marcus knew he wasn’t a chance when Tuksy took off ahead and was found to be ‘sunning’ himself on a rock!
A brief rest at the top of Imita to regain our composure then the push to the Goldie River, wade/swim across then start the final journey up to the finish being Owers’ Corner.
With 300m to go and the Arches in sight, the group bunched together, many strangers at the start but by now are all good mates. The final steps of the journey were taken as a group but once completed, the emotional flood gates were opened as people reflected on their own individual achievements.
I am immensely proud to have been part of this journey having seen some people face their demons and prevail – to push through the pain barrier and just crack on when saying within themselves ‘remember the diggers’, they didn’t give up!
Congratulations to Peter Kirkwood, Sue, PK, Robbo, Marcus, Luke & Trent on raising over $20,000.00 for Melanoma Cancer Services & Equipment for the Bendigo Health Foundation…your efforts have been absolutely outstanding and be very…very proud of this!
I also had the opportunity to listen to one of my father best friends from their youth tell me stories of them both during this trek of which my family didn’t know about. As a rare form of Motor Neurone Disease rapidly takes away more and more of my father’s ability to communicate with us, these stories are more precious than all the gold in the world!! I thank Alan very much for this opportunity.
Thanks also to Chris, Murray, David & Phil who provided us all with many…many laughs on the trek and we enjoyed the banter very much (especially the two Kelly brothers!)…be proud of your achievements and wish you all the very best in your future adventures.
‘Where’s the Road? NO ROADS…………..
Shane Chisholm
Expedition Guide
No Roads Expeditions
[email protected]
With 300m to go and the Arches in sight, the group bunched together, many strangers at the start but by now are all good mates. The final steps of the journey were taken as a group but once completed, the emotional flood gates were opened as people reflected on their own individual achievements.
I am immensely proud to have been part of this journey having seen some people face their demons and prevail – to push through the pain barrier and just crack on when saying within themselves ‘remember the diggers’, they didn’t give up!
Congratulations to Peter Kirkwood, Sue, PK, Robbo, Marcus, Luke & Trent on raising over $20,000.00 for Melanoma Cancer Services & Equipment for the Bendigo Health Foundation…your efforts have been absolutely outstanding and be very…very proud of this!
I also had the opportunity to listen to one of my father best friends from their youth tell me stories of them both during this trek of which my family didn’t know about. As a rare form of Motor Neurone Disease rapidly takes away more and more of my father’s ability to communicate with us, these stories are more precious than all the gold in the world!! I thank Alan very much for this opportunity.
Thanks also to Chris, Murray, David & Phil who provided us all with many…many laughs on the trek and we enjoyed the banter very much (especially the two Kelly brothers!)…be proud of your achievements and wish you all the very best in your future adventures.
‘Where’s the Road? NO ROADS…………..
Shane Chisholm
Expedition Guide
No Roads Expeditions
[email protected]