Moving forward, slowly now in single file, each step precise and measured, slippery moss covered tree roots swell up out from the clay soil like a never ending maze of fingers trying to trip you with every step you take.
It’s hot, humid and the air is so still the trees drip water on us as we pass underneath. The sound of your heart beating in your ears slightly muffles the voices of those around you as if your head is in a fog.
Suddenly on our left hand side the unmistakable sound of a Japanese Juki machine gun pierces the air and is instantly followed up by another much closer on your right. The line stops, totally exposed, instantly frozen on the side of the mountain ridge that still climbs up in front of us with no end in sight. We have nowhere to go ………… WE HAVE BEEN AMBUSHED!
The sound of the machine guns echo off nearby valleys and fades away.
Everyone is still standing, aching legs trembling, clinging on to the mountain side. Anxious faces and furrowed brows slowly turn to grins and loud laughter. The machine guns we heard were in fact the local Kingfisher birds that still mimic the deathly sounds of jungle warfare that resonated through the mountains of the Owen Stanley Ranges here more than 7 decades ago during the bloody Kokoda Campaign.
Yes we are on a battle field and many lives were lost here, but not today.
"No one is shooting at you sport - You better take another step! Welcome to the Track!"
It’s hot, humid and the air is so still the trees drip water on us as we pass underneath. The sound of your heart beating in your ears slightly muffles the voices of those around you as if your head is in a fog.
Suddenly on our left hand side the unmistakable sound of a Japanese Juki machine gun pierces the air and is instantly followed up by another much closer on your right. The line stops, totally exposed, instantly frozen on the side of the mountain ridge that still climbs up in front of us with no end in sight. We have nowhere to go ………… WE HAVE BEEN AMBUSHED!
The sound of the machine guns echo off nearby valleys and fades away.
Everyone is still standing, aching legs trembling, clinging on to the mountain side. Anxious faces and furrowed brows slowly turn to grins and loud laughter. The machine guns we heard were in fact the local Kingfisher birds that still mimic the deathly sounds of jungle warfare that resonated through the mountains of the Owen Stanley Ranges here more than 7 decades ago during the bloody Kokoda Campaign.
Yes we are on a battle field and many lives were lost here, but not today.
"No one is shooting at you sport - You better take another step! Welcome to the Track!"
The group of 11 trekkers from Northern NSW was made up of 6 members from one family - Mark, Brendan, Adrian, Carla, Michelle and Elle and 5 of their friends Andrew, Kami, Chelsie and Hayley including 1 New Zealander Mark.B which really made the spirit of the Anzacs seem alive and real. They all made the journey to PNG to learn about the diggers, the Kokoda Campaign, the local people and to challenge themselves and each other.
Day 1 – An early start and the flight over the ranges to Poppendetta gave the wide eyed trekkers an idea of what was ahead but by the end of the day we were all in camp at Deniki watching the valleys below us fill with clouds as the sunlight faded into night. The following day the memorial service at Isurava was blessed with blue skies and a rare clear view down the Yodda Valley towards Kokoda.
Every day on the track the never-ending hills ensured there was no opportunity to rest and the side trips on day 4 to the “Bomber Site” and “Myola Lake” were definitely worth the extra effort. As we walked into Kagi that afternoon greeted by the families of our porters it felt like we were coming home.
On our way to Menari a very moving service held on Brigade Hill saw every member of the group make personal dedications in memory to loved ones and everyone laid flower wreaths on the lonely wooden crosses that line the top of the ridge at Brigade Hill. It’s hard to believe that such peaceful places were once the site of so much death and destruction.
A quick dip on the last day in the cool waters of the Goldie River was well received before starting the final push up to Owers' Corner. The last part of the walk was hot and sunny, leaving the trekkers feeling challenged and spent, crossing the line under the arches was a defining moment for all to remember with the group electing to let our local guide Nelson march through a guard of honour as he was completing his last full trek and taking on a new operational role based in Port Moresby.
The final memorial service held at Bomana brought closure to the stories of the diggers told along the way and a small personal service for the family members of Gordon Moore at his grave site means the family now finally have a few photos of their hero at his final resting place. So many lives lost. Row upon row of headstones lined up perfectly on manicured lawns make you feel helpless and insignificant. Large rain trees stretch out across the lawns, their outstretched limbs like arms shielding the diggers from the elements and the privileges we take for granted in modern day life that they fought for us to have.
Day 1 – An early start and the flight over the ranges to Poppendetta gave the wide eyed trekkers an idea of what was ahead but by the end of the day we were all in camp at Deniki watching the valleys below us fill with clouds as the sunlight faded into night. The following day the memorial service at Isurava was blessed with blue skies and a rare clear view down the Yodda Valley towards Kokoda.
Every day on the track the never-ending hills ensured there was no opportunity to rest and the side trips on day 4 to the “Bomber Site” and “Myola Lake” were definitely worth the extra effort. As we walked into Kagi that afternoon greeted by the families of our porters it felt like we were coming home.
On our way to Menari a very moving service held on Brigade Hill saw every member of the group make personal dedications in memory to loved ones and everyone laid flower wreaths on the lonely wooden crosses that line the top of the ridge at Brigade Hill. It’s hard to believe that such peaceful places were once the site of so much death and destruction.
A quick dip on the last day in the cool waters of the Goldie River was well received before starting the final push up to Owers' Corner. The last part of the walk was hot and sunny, leaving the trekkers feeling challenged and spent, crossing the line under the arches was a defining moment for all to remember with the group electing to let our local guide Nelson march through a guard of honour as he was completing his last full trek and taking on a new operational role based in Port Moresby.
The final memorial service held at Bomana brought closure to the stories of the diggers told along the way and a small personal service for the family members of Gordon Moore at his grave site means the family now finally have a few photos of their hero at his final resting place. So many lives lost. Row upon row of headstones lined up perfectly on manicured lawns make you feel helpless and insignificant. Large rain trees stretch out across the lawns, their outstretched limbs like arms shielding the diggers from the elements and the privileges we take for granted in modern day life that they fought for us to have.
As always the porters were brilliant at ensuring everyone made it safely over the countless slippery ascents, descents and river crossings. Although special mention should be made to Adrian who managed to make 5 falls in a single day on what was essentially a dry track. Well done mate, you have set a new record! In the swamp some of the log crossings were still underwater as a result of the wet weather experienced in the previous months but this did not manage to stop the group or their enthusiasm along the way.
Even tho we had several special dietary requirements in this group our Master Chef Ian kept surprising us with special treats along the way that catered for everyone.
It was evident during the trip the trekkers had all learned a lot from the locals and each other. For some, the completion of the track meant conquering some personal demons and returning home with the chance to make the changes needed to start new beginning’s and to recognise their personal achievements and abilities. Thanks guys for believing in yourselves and pushing yourself when you would normally give up.
Family, friends and a willing spirit to seek adventure meant that the trip was always going to be a great success for all.
Until next time…….
Even tho we had several special dietary requirements in this group our Master Chef Ian kept surprising us with special treats along the way that catered for everyone.
It was evident during the trip the trekkers had all learned a lot from the locals and each other. For some, the completion of the track meant conquering some personal demons and returning home with the chance to make the changes needed to start new beginning’s and to recognise their personal achievements and abilities. Thanks guys for believing in yourselves and pushing yourself when you would normally give up.
Family, friends and a willing spirit to seek adventure meant that the trip was always going to be a great success for all.
Until next time…….
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