Group 55, one of the last expeditions along the Kokoda Track for 2014 with No Roads Expeditions was a cracker. Its been and gone but I still cannot get the smile off my face about this expedition. It was really really great, and when I answer friends who ask how it went, the first thing I say is that the trekkers were an awesome group of people, a joy to be with and guide along the Track.
Expedition Team
With such a large expedition the mix of personalities and backgrounds can be interesting to manage. I was very lucky as the group were a diverse bunch, a mix of men and women, from Victoria, Tasmania and Nic from England, an average age of 41 years old, with the youngest being 18 and oldest being 62. Everyone got on very well with each other and I couldn't have scored a more perfect group, a great mix of personalities and backgrounds, and a dream to guide.
Our expert PNG Local Guide was Robert and Lead Porter was Neino, both seasoned professionals and cool customers. As the Australian expedition guide I was very impressed with the entire porter team, all 35 of them! We had 12 personal porters allocated to trekkers who paid them to carry their heavy backpack, 2 short term porters (for extra gear we carry over the first 3 days), Ben as our Masterchef, and the rest of the team as our general porters. Terrance and Jack coordinated the whole operation magnificently from Port Moresby with our Australian support team Fiona and Drew. Truly an amazing team effort, well done!
With such a large expedition the mix of personalities and backgrounds can be interesting to manage. I was very lucky as the group were a diverse bunch, a mix of men and women, from Victoria, Tasmania and Nic from England, an average age of 41 years old, with the youngest being 18 and oldest being 62. Everyone got on very well with each other and I couldn't have scored a more perfect group, a great mix of personalities and backgrounds, and a dream to guide.
Our expert PNG Local Guide was Robert and Lead Porter was Neino, both seasoned professionals and cool customers. As the Australian expedition guide I was very impressed with the entire porter team, all 35 of them! We had 12 personal porters allocated to trekkers who paid them to carry their heavy backpack, 2 short term porters (for extra gear we carry over the first 3 days), Ben as our Masterchef, and the rest of the team as our general porters. Terrance and Jack coordinated the whole operation magnificently from Port Moresby with our Australian support team Fiona and Drew. Truly an amazing team effort, well done!
In no particular order I have decided to break down the expedition into small sections covering a different topic. Its hard to digest such an amazing experience into a few words and pictures, so here it goes.

Adventure
Whilst we didn't swing across ravines on jungle vines, we did cross a bridge made from vines over the Eora Creek!
Each day had something to offer. Climbing up and around a cliff face near Brigade Hill, to carefully crossing slippery log bridges, almost falling down sheer cliffs, wading through rivers and walking along narrow jungle tracks in torrential rain.
We even threw in a creek crossing in full flood at Va-Ule Creek, using ropes and porters to assist us in crossing the raging creek. Just as Brendon got across the creek, he told me with a big smile, "That was @#$@#$ awesome!!!"
Whilst we didn't swing across ravines on jungle vines, we did cross a bridge made from vines over the Eora Creek!
Each day had something to offer. Climbing up and around a cliff face near Brigade Hill, to carefully crossing slippery log bridges, almost falling down sheer cliffs, wading through rivers and walking along narrow jungle tracks in torrential rain.
We even threw in a creek crossing in full flood at Va-Ule Creek, using ropes and porters to assist us in crossing the raging creek. Just as Brendon got across the creek, he told me with a big smile, "That was @#$@#$ awesome!!!"

Logistics
This expedition was one of our larger ones with 17 trekkers and required careful planning and clever logistics to make it work smoothly, and safely.
Our experienced porters and PNG Operations Team worked tirelessly ensuring the 35 backpacks, full of food, utensils, cooking equipment, tents, sleeping mats, safety equipment, shower tent, ropes, all made it to camp each day, without dramas.
Each day tents were put together, pulled apart, food prepared for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and all gear carried between locations. I was very proud of how well the guys did their tasks, from the decorated lunch tables through to making lemonade damper in the morning, allowing our trekkers to simply arrive into camp and relax. From around 4:00am through to 9:00pm the porters all worked tirelessly, always with a smile and ever so willing to help when required.
This expedition was one of our larger ones with 17 trekkers and required careful planning and clever logistics to make it work smoothly, and safely.
Our experienced porters and PNG Operations Team worked tirelessly ensuring the 35 backpacks, full of food, utensils, cooking equipment, tents, sleeping mats, safety equipment, shower tent, ropes, all made it to camp each day, without dramas.
Each day tents were put together, pulled apart, food prepared for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and all gear carried between locations. I was very proud of how well the guys did their tasks, from the decorated lunch tables through to making lemonade damper in the morning, allowing our trekkers to simply arrive into camp and relax. From around 4:00am through to 9:00pm the porters all worked tirelessly, always with a smile and ever so willing to help when required.

The Journey
Our expedition followed the normal itinerary with a quick flight into Girwa airfield (near Popondetta), followed by a 3 hour drive in a luxury PMV through to Kokoda. We trekked from Kokoda through to Deniki, Aloloa, Templetons Crossing, Kagi via Myola Lakes, Menari via Efogi 2, Efogi 1 and Brigade Hill, then a short day into Nauro across the swamps (with a nice swim in the Brown River), down to Ofi Creek and through to Va-Ule Creek for the last night sleep. The last day saw us climb the mighty Imita Ridge and then a long trek down to the Goldie River, and up again to the finish at Owers' Corner.
On our return to the hotel, we stopped at Bomana Cemetery to pay our respects to the soldiers who lost their lives during the war. That night we celebrated with our Porters and the PNG Operations team together one last time, over a buffet dinner followed by some wonderful singing by our porters, the Kagi Boys.
Our expedition followed the normal itinerary with a quick flight into Girwa airfield (near Popondetta), followed by a 3 hour drive in a luxury PMV through to Kokoda. We trekked from Kokoda through to Deniki, Aloloa, Templetons Crossing, Kagi via Myola Lakes, Menari via Efogi 2, Efogi 1 and Brigade Hill, then a short day into Nauro across the swamps (with a nice swim in the Brown River), down to Ofi Creek and through to Va-Ule Creek for the last night sleep. The last day saw us climb the mighty Imita Ridge and then a long trek down to the Goldie River, and up again to the finish at Owers' Corner.
On our return to the hotel, we stopped at Bomana Cemetery to pay our respects to the soldiers who lost their lives during the war. That night we celebrated with our Porters and the PNG Operations team together one last time, over a buffet dinner followed by some wonderful singing by our porters, the Kagi Boys.

Personalities
Spending ten days together, eight on the track brings out your personality. Even the quieter ones came out of the normally quiet shells. We had all sorts on this trek. The time to yourself and walking next to people for hours on end gives you time to think, and to talk a lot!
From the game at Nauro with an interesting deck of cards, to the tall stories and jokes on each other, it all made for a great atmosphere. I'm still laughing after watching Neino fall off his log whilst having a few minutes kip at a rest stop, and listening to his porter mates laugh their heads off ribbing him silly.
Spending ten days together, eight on the track brings out your personality. Even the quieter ones came out of the normally quiet shells. We had all sorts on this trek. The time to yourself and walking next to people for hours on end gives you time to think, and to talk a lot!
From the game at Nauro with an interesting deck of cards, to the tall stories and jokes on each other, it all made for a great atmosphere. I'm still laughing after watching Neino fall off his log whilst having a few minutes kip at a rest stop, and listening to his porter mates laugh their heads off ribbing him silly.

Accomplishment
Overcoming an injury, tackling a fear of heights, camping outdoors for the first time, flying, conquering the first pit toilet you have ever seen without falling in, sharing a tent with a mate that snores like a chainsaw, reading an emotion charged poem about the war, being away from home and your family for 10 days - these are all accomplishments that occur on the Track.
Everyone has a few things they wanted to do, and a few others thrown in they didn't expect. Completing the Kokoda experience is different for each of us, but we all had the same huge smile at the end as we walked through the arches at Owers' Corner - we did it!!
Overcoming an injury, tackling a fear of heights, camping outdoors for the first time, flying, conquering the first pit toilet you have ever seen without falling in, sharing a tent with a mate that snores like a chainsaw, reading an emotion charged poem about the war, being away from home and your family for 10 days - these are all accomplishments that occur on the Track.
Everyone has a few things they wanted to do, and a few others thrown in they didn't expect. Completing the Kokoda experience is different for each of us, but we all had the same huge smile at the end as we walked through the arches at Owers' Corner - we did it!!

Weather
Our welcoming weather into Kokoda was the glaring sun and humidity, as expected. What wasn't expected was the heavy rain heading into Kovelo and through to Hoi. This was a great introduction to afternoon storms.
During the majority of the trek we had overcast and sunny conditions, with drizzle in the afternoon and/or overnight. On day 5 at Nauro we experienced a big thunderstorm at camp around 2:30pm that went for several hours. Later the next day as we travelled over the ridge line, the trees across the whole side of the valley above Ofi Creek were flattened by strong winds. Must have been a huge storm!
We also watched a dark rain cloud develop over the Va-Ule Creek from our vantage point at Ioribaiwa Village over lunch. This did mean we had very heavy rain through the valley and flash flooding to deal with at Va-Ule Creek campsite. All part of the excitement of an expedition.
Our welcoming weather into Kokoda was the glaring sun and humidity, as expected. What wasn't expected was the heavy rain heading into Kovelo and through to Hoi. This was a great introduction to afternoon storms.
During the majority of the trek we had overcast and sunny conditions, with drizzle in the afternoon and/or overnight. On day 5 at Nauro we experienced a big thunderstorm at camp around 2:30pm that went for several hours. Later the next day as we travelled over the ridge line, the trees across the whole side of the valley above Ofi Creek were flattened by strong winds. Must have been a huge storm!
We also watched a dark rain cloud develop over the Va-Ule Creek from our vantage point at Ioribaiwa Village over lunch. This did mean we had very heavy rain through the valley and flash flooding to deal with at Va-Ule Creek campsite. All part of the excitement of an expedition.

Mateship
The entire expedition was full of examples where mates helped each other, from a simple helping hand up a steep section through to encouragement when the going got tough.
Mark, Craig and Terry are three mates from Sunbury, all on an adventure together. All three of them demonstrated the mateship and endurance to each other that Kokoda brings out in people. I overheard them encouraging each other, saw them help each other in particular Mark with his sprained ankle, and rib each other like mates do about Craig carrying his heavy pack.
The entire expedition was full of examples where mates helped each other, from a simple helping hand up a steep section through to encouragement when the going got tough.
Mark, Craig and Terry are three mates from Sunbury, all on an adventure together. All three of them demonstrated the mateship and endurance to each other that Kokoda brings out in people. I overheard them encouraging each other, saw them help each other in particular Mark with his sprained ankle, and rib each other like mates do about Craig carrying his heavy pack.

Local Culture
Learning about the war history is on the itinerary and expected, but a heartfelt village greeting with kids giving us necklaces and a welcome song wasn't. Its amazing how beautiful this gesture is and a few tears were shed at Kagi.
On some nights Robert our local guide told us about his culture, about bride price, land ownership, and other customs. We also sang with the local kids well into the night, sharing our own dodgy singing skills with Incy Wincy Spider and handing out some gifts to the kids.
Learning about the war history is on the itinerary and expected, but a heartfelt village greeting with kids giving us necklaces and a welcome song wasn't. Its amazing how beautiful this gesture is and a few tears were shed at Kagi.
On some nights Robert our local guide told us about his culture, about bride price, land ownership, and other customs. We also sang with the local kids well into the night, sharing our own dodgy singing skills with Incy Wincy Spider and handing out some gifts to the kids.
Health and Medical
Trekkers bring a lot of health and medical supplies as requested. I've heard people say I'll never need all this, and they generally don't, but when you do need it, you are glad you did bring everything! Our expedition went well with very few people getting injured or sick. One or two people had upset stomachs for a few days, Mark with a sprained ankle, Daniel with a thigh muscle injury requiring strapping, and others with minor injuries like blisters etc.. If a toilet was in 100m of us, Tammy could provide a report on its style, cleanliness and smell, our Chief Loo Inspector! Nic however always smelt lovely bringing some class to the group, thanks to a clever supply of lavender oil. |
Photo Gallery
These are just some of the 2100+ photos taken during this expedition.
These are just some of the 2100+ photos taken during this expedition.
I really enjoyed this expedition. It was full of memorable moments, and great people that I hope to keep in touch with, people I hope to remain friends with.
The four granite pillars at the Isurava memorial site certainly capture the spirit of the Kokoda experience. I witnessed countless examples of mateship, endurance, courage and sacrifice. Of course our experiences were different to those that fought during the war in horrendous conditions, but the Track has a way of bringing them out in all of us.
As an expedition guide I cherish the smiling faces of accomplishment, the stories I hear told of the experience, the personal challenges that were overcome, the respect offered to the diggers at the battle sites, and the special welcome I receive from my friends in PNG who bend over backwards every time to make our No Roads Expeditions a memorable adventure.
The four granite pillars at the Isurava memorial site certainly capture the spirit of the Kokoda experience. I witnessed countless examples of mateship, endurance, courage and sacrifice. Of course our experiences were different to those that fought during the war in horrendous conditions, but the Track has a way of bringing them out in all of us.
As an expedition guide I cherish the smiling faces of accomplishment, the stories I hear told of the experience, the personal challenges that were overcome, the respect offered to the diggers at the battle sites, and the special welcome I receive from my friends in PNG who bend over backwards every time to make our No Roads Expeditions a memorable adventure.